mercredi 30 octobre 2013
Lou Reed
samedi 26 octobre 2013
Day 17 (October 26): Riding Irish Rail
It is still intellectually challenging to accept that I am crossing the country, coast to coast, in an afternoon, a short afternoon at that.
That is a bloody National Park back home.
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lundi 21 octobre 2013
London, UK: Random, Departing Observations
- There is a wonderful anarchy to English pubs.
- Some pubs of note that I visited:
¤ The Ten Bells in Spitalfields, which was on the way from Liverpool St station to where I was staying. One of Jack the Ripper's victims was last seen alive in front of the pub.
¤ The Black Friars, near Black Friars Station in the City. Described as a 'art nouveau' Victorian pub, it is simply gorgeous, with reliefs of monks adorning the wall above the bar and a ceramic domed ceiling above the dining area.
¤ The Old Cheshire Cheese off Fleet Street in The City. A 400+-year-old establishment, the pub has evidently hosted Daniel Johnston, Dickens, countless tired and emotional journalists and Polly the Parrot, now deceased, no more, a former parrot, etc.
- I left London with 20p left on my Oyster card (transit card), which I am attributing to phenomenal planning on my part.
- Some metrics: 2 operas; 1 requiem; 1 bitching rock show; 3 museums; 3 galleries; 4 'London Walks'; 1 chocolate show; 10 pubs; 1 zapped computer power chord.
- London is cool.
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Day 9 (October 18): Camden, UK
samedi 19 octobre 2013
Day 8 (October 17): London, UK
One of the backdrops was meant to represent a wall of the Paris opera, with balconies and loges, where Les Vêpres was first produced. The synopsis in the program alluded to the production being not only about the opera's story of a struggle between the French and the Sicilians, but that it was meant to represent a battle over art 'ownership'. In keeping with this premise, the seats in the balconies and loges were occupied by some of the performers, quote often, the French soldiers. During the fifth act, those seated performers were reacting to the action going before them (and us) as though they were in fact attending the performance. The opera ends with Sicilian revolutionaries bursting in and shooting the French; the production ended with the Sicilians shooting towards the audience. The roles had now been completely reversed; we were now part of the opera and part of the company was now the audience.
Yeah, I do not get it either.
What I did get was how near-overwhelming the over-all quality of the production, décors, technical work and, of course, the singing and orchestra was. To state the obvious, the ROH is one of the top opera companies in the world and did it ever show. The production and performances were far, far ahead of what the English National Opera (ENO) put on Monday night with Madam Butterfly, and that was, I thought, an excellent performance (black-clad ninjas and scary child puppet notwithstanding). This is clearly not meant as a slight in the least on the ENO, but just to illustrate how the ROH plays in another, much more restricted, league.
Other observations, of the random variety:
- I recognized one of the performers: Michael Volle sang the role of Governor Montfort. I have seen in some of the Metropolitan Opera's broadcasts.
- The crowd's reaction was loud and very enthusiastic, but few people stood as they kept showering the performers with applause. Standing ovations are perhaps unique to North America? I do not know.
- The opera is sung in French. I always had thought that all of Verdi's operas were in Italian.
- Interval ice cream is clearly a thing here, as they were selling it both tonight and at the ENO production on Monday.
- This being the opening performance, it was the very first time Les Vêpres has been performed at the Royal Opera. Yeah, history!
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vendredi 18 octobre 2013
Day 6 (October 15): Cambridge, UK
Highlights/things that made me geek out (you will have surely noticed by now that they are one and the same):
1.- Visiting the Fitzwilliam. This is best described as Cambridge University's 'Humanities' Museum, drawn from the University's extensive and expansive collections of ancient artefacts, pottery, fine china, furniture, artwork, etc. There was one room featuring XIXth and XXth century French paintings (Pissaro, Renoir, Seurat, etc.), which included several works (of Impressionists!) from good ole' John Maynard Keynes' personal collection, on loan (of course) from King's College.
2.- Browsing in the Cambridge University Press bookstore. That, unfortunately, made me feel dumb. Very, very dumb.
3.- Listening to the last few minutes of a choral mass at Clare College Chapel. Pure beauty, in a very English/white/Western way.
4.- Seeing a swan fly down the river. I had never seen a swan flying before.
5.- Having dinner at the Cambridge Chophouse. The meal itself (roast leg of lamb) was good, if a bit over-priced, and was finished off with some surprisingly good English cheeses. However, the highlight was that they pumped the audio track of Blackadder episodes in the men's washroom for no reason other than, according to the manager, 'it's fun'. And it was.
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mercredi 16 octobre 2013
Day 5 (October 14): London, UK
1.- The Courtauld Institute, in Somerset House on Strand, has a lovely, lovely little gallery. It features 20 or so rooms over two floors, highlighted by an impressive collection of works by Impressionists, including some very recognisable masterpieces by Renoir ('La Loge'), Manet ('A Bar at Les Folies Bergères', almost picture-like in its attention to detail) and Van Gogh ('Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear'). Simply enjoyable.
2.- Around 5 PM, I scored a 30£ ticket (face value: 84£) at the Leicester Square tkts booth for the English National Opera (ENO)'s showing of Madam Butterfly. What I did not know was that the ENO's policy is to present English-language versions of operas.
Despite that, the singing was as near-perfect as it can get. The production, a reprise of the 2003 Anthony Minghella one, presented by the ENO and the Met, relied on roughly 20 performers clad in black ninja-styled body suits to bring in props, move some of the scenery (mostly sliding Japanese doors), do a bit of a modern dance to introduce the third act and animate a rather disturbing puppet that played Butterfly's child. Beyond the clear link with the ninja costumes, I am certain this was meant to evoke further something Japanese. I felt it intruded on the performance; it even felt 'cheesy': when laying out props for the main characters, it was never clear whether the ninja-clad extras were meant to play servants or to exist outside of the reality portrayed on the stage. It made me again, six months later, realize how amazing, and quite possibly revolutionary, Robert Lepage's production of The Ring Cycle was.
After the performance, when the players were taking their bows, a portion of the crowd ended up (after first applauding him) booing the singer who played Pinkerton. The singer, realising that response was aimed at the character, played along with it, shrugging his shoulders and sheepishly grinning. And the booing (of the character) was richly deserved, as Pinkerton is such a right fucken bastard. There are not that many fictional characters that inspire strong feelings in me; Pinkerton definitely does. He is an unredeemable arsehole.
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samedi 12 octobre 2013
Days 1-2 (October 10-11): London, UK
Damned weird.
Almost peculiar.
As I got off my flight at Heathrow, I picked up a little visitor's guide to London. You know the type: a pocket-sized, 5-inch by 3-inch, 24-page, glossy little tourist guide that usually features half-assed maps; brilliant recommendations like 'You should visit the Tower of London', 'Big Ben is very pretty' and 'There are pubs in London; you should go to one and have a beer.'; a coupon for £5 off an open-top, Grey Line city bus tour; and a couple recommendations for the finest fish 'n chips joints in town.
Well, this booklet has a 6-page section devoted to restaurants and, as silly as it sounds, I sought out two of them. And, lo and behold, they were really good. A bit trendy/busy, but really, really good.
Ten-On-Greek in Soho (located at 10 Greek Street; get it? Get it?), which is very unassuming and probably only seats 50 or so, serves nice, higher-end 'culinary' plates while featuring a nice selection of wines by the glass. Dishoon's Bombay Café, nearby in Covent Gardens, offers a nice variety of Indian dishes; the two I had (Pan Bhaji, a tomato-based vegetable curry, served with dinner rolls [evidently, it is a Bombay thing], and the lamb biryani) were spicy, but nor overwhelmingly so. They even offer a house IPA, much different from the American IPAs that I enjoyed over the summer, in that it was almost sweet with no discernible hoppiness.
That I managed to find two such places from a tourist booklet and, moreso, that I was actually impressed by them, well,
it is... It is...
It is damned peculiar.
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mercredi 9 octobre 2013
Where Will I Be?
Provided something interesting and noteworthy happens, I should be doing some blogging, but probably not as extensively as over the summer.
My first random observation: I am travelling so much lighter than over the summer, especially towards the end of the trip. I would not be surprised if I am carrying close to 25 lbs less.
There you go, thrilling, innit?
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