mercredi 30 octobre 2013

Lou Reed

I was not planning to write anything about Lou Reed, but 72 hours later, I am still surprised at how visceral and emotional my reaction was upon reading of his death (on twitter, of course, an hour or so after it was first announced).

I am not even sure I would have put Lou Reed on my list of favourite artists (The Stones, Geldof/The Boomtown Rats, Maria McKee and Billy Bragg are charter members, with others floating in and out), even if two of his albums (New York and Transformer, more on those below) are amongst my favourite and are both brilliant. But here I was, in my Tralee hotel room on Sunday night, stomach-punched by the news of his death. I then spent three hours listening to youtube clips by and reading articles about him that were being posted to twitter.

I have since then been trying to figure out why and I think it is because I am currently re-discovering him.  I have been buying some of his work from the 70's and moving from being a life-long casual fan to getting to know his work more in-depth. It started with buying Transformer about 18 months ago, and being completely flabbergasted at the strength and the imagery of every track. I also realised that the Greatest Hits collection I owned must have included at least six tracks from that album. Transformer has been on my playlist since.

Building on that, one of my favourite moments in London was finding a copy of Metal Machine Music, the post-industrial ode to noise that he put out post-Transformer.

A friend lent me New York in university around the time it first came out (1988); I promptly bought it myself and listened to it over and over. It is a perfect reflection of the times, with songs about the AIDS blight, inner city decay, the results of eight year of Reagan, etc. Again, as for Transformer, each song is brilliantly written, telling a self-contained story that builds upon the album's themes, with lyrics that are often times caustic ('Give me your hungry, your tired, your poor I'll piss on them/That's what the Statue of Bigotry says') yet precise and to the point.

I have read interviews (see, in particular, Neil Gaiman's [and yes, my geeky head almost explodes at the thought that Gaiman interviewed Reed]) where Reed describes his work as writing a novel. I tend to scoff at songwriters who make such claims (Pete Townsend is a perfect example); they generally come off as self-aggrandisement from ageing rock stars who feel the need to justify their artistic output (i.e., pop ditties) by linking it to or re-interpreting as a 'respected', more highbrow art form. In Reed's case, however, I may see his point. Both Transformer and New York feel like chapters in a book describing where the author stood at that particular time in his life and, in both these cases, how he saw, understood and interacted with NYC.


Whether he crafted a novel, or simply a string of highly acclaimed and influential albums, Lou Reed’s legacy will carry on, most probably as one of the more regarded auteurs in his medium. Rest well, Mr. Reed, you have deserved it.

samedi 26 octobre 2013

Day 17 (October 26): Riding Irish Rail

I just left Dublin (at 1 PM local time; the train left precisely on time) and should be in Tralee in roughly 3.5 hours.

It is still intellectually challenging to accept that I am crossing the country, coast to coast, in an afternoon, a short afternoon at that.

That is a bloody National Park back home.


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lundi 21 octobre 2013

London, UK: Random, Departing Observations

- I got carried away with my Johnny Marr post, so I did not mention the other fun thing I did on Friday (October 18): I attended the inaugural London Salon du Chocolat. Think of it as a (smaller) Food and Wine Show, but for chocolate. Yes, it is possible to have too many free samples of high end chocolate. (And fleur-de-sel caramels. And nougat. Fresh nougat is awfully good, BTW. ). About a third of the exhibitioners were from France, mostly from Bretagne; speaking to them en français was fun. I dropped £41 on caramels, chocolates and pineapple confiture. Other than the jam, I am guessing not much of that is coming back to Canada.

- There is a wonderful anarchy to English pubs.

- Some pubs of note that I visited:

¤ The Ten Bells in Spitalfields, which was on the way from Liverpool St station to where I was staying. One of Jack the Ripper's victims was last seen alive in front of the pub.

¤ The Black Friars, near Black Friars Station in the City. Described as a 'art nouveau' Victorian pub, it is simply gorgeous, with reliefs of monks adorning the wall above the bar and a ceramic domed ceiling above the dining area.

¤ The Old Cheshire Cheese off Fleet Street in The City. A 400+-year-old establishment, the pub has evidently hosted Daniel Johnston, Dickens, countless tired and emotional journalists and Polly the Parrot, now deceased, no more, a former parrot, etc.

- I left London with 20p left on my Oyster card (transit card), which I am attributing to phenomenal planning on my part.

- Some metrics: 2 operas; 1 requiem; 1 bitching rock show; 3 museums; 3 galleries; 4 'London Walks'; 1 chocolate show; 10 pubs; 1 zapped computer power chord.

- London is cool.


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Day 9 (October 18): Camden, UK

Johnny Marr, man.

I saw Johnny Fucken Marr!  In Camden, no less.

Those of you who know me, or who have been paying attention, will know that Morrissey was on my yet-to-see/must-see concert list until he (again) cancelled (along with many others) the Nashville gig I was supposed to see (and used as an excuse to go to Nashville back in March) due to 'illness'.

Well, fuck Moz. I saw Johnny Marr.

(BTW, if you are under 70 and you have no idea what I am going on about, well, first, fuck you, because you have no soul.  Second, look up The Smiths on the youtube.)

There are moments when things come together, when planets align or whatnot, and one's brain just goes electric.  I had one of those moments when, as his second track, Marr started to sing The Smiths' 'Panic'. Hearing the familiar opening line 'Panic in the streets of London' and realising I am actually listening to this live in London, well, that was it for me.  The show could have ended there and I would have been satisfied.  The song may then have become a self-fulfilling prophecy, but what the heck, I would have been just happily trying to get to the tube through the panicking throng.

But that was not the only Smiths flashback to earlier, simpler times from 25+ years ago that Marr unleashed on the 3000 in attendance. He also played 'Bigmouth Strikes Again' and ended his hour-long set with 'How Soon is Now'.  There is such a complete and near-mystifying incongruity that songs about paralysing shyness and bludgeoning one's love in her sleep can evoke such a joyful reaction in audience members, even if that reaction was mostly resulting from a recall of their youthful days.  (Man, I used to dance back then.  And not entirely ungracefully, might I add.  Plus, I still had hope...  Wait, no I didn't.  I did dance, though.)

Marr himself alluded to that dichotomy between the subject matter of The Smiths' songs and the response they evoke by prefacing the last song of his 20-minute encore by telling the audience that sometimes it is not what the lyrics say that make a song great.  He then launched into 'There is a Light That Never Goes Out', which became a massive sing-along as the crowd joined in and repeated the chorus with Marr a good half-dozen times.  (OK, I will spare you looking it up:

‘If a double-decker bus crashes into us
To die by your side is such a heavenly way to die
And if a ten-ton truck kills the both of us
To die by your side… Well, the pleasure- the privilege is mine.’)

Here is some pretty bad video evidence, keeping in mind it was taken with the three-year old 'berry, from a way's away:




That dichotomy/incongruity, which permeates The Smiths' catalogue, is a direct result of Marr's music and guitar work.  He turns Moz's dark visions of depression, shyness and potential suicide, through lyrics that sometimes can come dangerously close to being campy, into happy music.  And that is Marr's (and by extension The Smiths') brilliance.  If not brilliance, then certainly his significant contribution to a band which dominated what was then called alternative rock (and college radio and campuses) in the mid-80's.  That is not a bad legacy.

Writing this review makes me realize that I have now basically turned into the MIDDLE-AGED people that would go see The Beach Boys 25 years ago, hoping to hear a live version of a hit they had danced to 20 years or more prior.  There is one substantial difference: Marr played mostly his solo stuff, including material from The Messenger, released earlier this year to critical acclaim.  That material holds up; it certainly does not carry or cause the electricity that The Smiths' biggest hits do, but it is strong in and by itself.

Random observations:

- The Roundhouse is a mid-19th century, steam engine repair facility transformed into a large concert venue.  It has a gigantic floor area (easily 90 per cent of the crowd was on the floor), with a balcony of 5 or 6 rows of seats encircling the venue.  I was somewhat annoyed at first that the view from the seats was slightly obstructed by a row of steel pillars and, more specifically, that this was not mentioned at all when I bought the ticket on-line.  The annoyance disappeared soon after Marr took the stage.

- Ironically, Moz's autobiography was finally released in the UK yesterday, after a brief, Moz-inspired delay.

- This site is worth checking out if you are a fan of The Smiths and/or The Peanurs; it is effen brilliant: thischarmingcharlie.tumblr.com.


samedi 19 octobre 2013

Day 8 (October 17): London, UK

I attended Les vêpres siciliennes, by Verdi, at the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden. I had been there once before, twelve years ago, but was still surprised at how small of a house it is, just a pillbox of a venue. The stage must be about half the width of the stage in the National Arts Centre's Opera (now known as Southam Hall), if that. The production took advantage of every square inch of stage space (an extremely deep stage, it would appear), as it included ballet dancers, a military regiment, scores of both peasants and masked ball attendees. Physically, several moveable backdrops folded back inwards and outwards to expand or contract the stage depending on whether the action was set inside or out.

One of the backdrops was meant to represent a wall of the Paris opera, with balconies and loges, where Les Vêpres was first produced. The synopsis in the program alluded to the production being not only about the opera's story of a struggle between the French and the Sicilians, but that it was meant to represent a battle over art 'ownership'. In keeping with this premise, the seats in the balconies and loges were occupied by some of the performers, quote often, the French soldiers. During the fifth act, those seated performers were reacting to the action going before them (and us) as though they were in fact attending the performance. The opera ends with Sicilian revolutionaries bursting in and shooting the French; the production ended with the Sicilians shooting towards the audience. The roles had now been completely reversed; we were now part of the opera and part of the company was now the audience.

Yeah, I do not get it either.

What I did get was how near-overwhelming the over-all quality of the production, décors, technical work and, of course, the singing and orchestra was. To state the obvious, the ROH is one of the top opera companies in the world and did it ever show. The production and performances were far, far ahead of what the English National Opera (ENO) put on Monday night with Madam Butterfly, and that was, I thought, an excellent performance (black-clad ninjas and scary child puppet notwithstanding). This is clearly not meant as a slight in the least on the ENO, but just to illustrate how the ROH plays in another, much more restricted, league.

Other observations, of the random variety:

- I recognized one of the performers: Michael Volle sang the role of Governor Montfort. I have seen in some of the Metropolitan Opera's broadcasts.

- The crowd's reaction was loud and very enthusiastic, but few people stood as they kept showering the performers with applause. Standing ovations are perhaps unique to North America? I do not know.

- The opera is sung in French. I always had thought that all of Verdi's operas were in Italian.

- Interval ice cream is clearly a thing here, as they were selling it both tonight and at the ENO production on Monday.

- This being the opening performance, it was the very first time Les Vêpres has been performed at the Royal Opera. Yeah, history!

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vendredi 18 octobre 2013

Day 6 (October 15): Cambridge, UK

I took a day trip to Cambridge and, lo and behold, did not get murdered. (If I learned anything from watching 'Inspector Lewis', it is that there is a shockingly high murder rate in Cambridge.)

Highlights/things that made me geek out (you will have surely noticed by now that they are one and the same):

1.- Visiting the Fitzwilliam. This is best described as Cambridge University's 'Humanities' Museum, drawn from the University's extensive and expansive collections of ancient artefacts, pottery, fine china, furniture, artwork, etc. There was one room featuring XIXth and XXth century French paintings (Pissaro, Renoir, Seurat, etc.), which included several works (of Impressionists!) from good ole' John Maynard Keynes' personal collection, on loan (of course) from King's College.

2.- Browsing in the Cambridge University Press bookstore. That, unfortunately, made me feel dumb. Very, very dumb.

3.- Listening to the last few minutes of a choral mass at Clare College Chapel. Pure beauty, in a very English/white/Western way.

4.- Seeing a swan fly down the river. I had never seen a swan flying before.

5.- Having dinner at the Cambridge Chophouse. The meal itself (roast leg of lamb) was good, if a bit over-priced, and was finished off with some surprisingly good English cheeses. However, the highlight was that they pumped the audio track of Blackadder episodes in the men's washroom for no reason other than, according to the manager, 'it's fun'. And it was.


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mercredi 16 octobre 2013

Day 5 (October 14): London, UK

A couple cultural tidbits:


1.- The Courtauld Institute, in Somerset House on Strand, has a lovely, lovely little gallery. It features 20 or so rooms over two floors, highlighted by an impressive collection of works by Impressionists, including some very recognisable masterpieces by Renoir ('La Loge'), Manet ('A Bar at Les Folies Bergères', almost picture-like in its attention to detail) and Van Gogh ('Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear'). Simply enjoyable.


2.- Around 5 PM, I scored a 30£ ticket (face value: 84£) at the Leicester Square tkts booth for the English National Opera (ENO)'s showing of Madam Butterfly. What I did not know was that the ENO's policy is to present English-language versions of operas.

Despite that, the singing was as near-perfect as it can get. The production, a reprise of the 2003 Anthony Minghella one, presented by the ENO and the Met, relied on roughly 20 performers clad in black ninja-styled body suits to bring in props, move some of the scenery (mostly sliding Japanese doors), do a bit of a modern dance to introduce the third act and animate a rather disturbing puppet that played Butterfly's child. Beyond the clear link with the ninja costumes, I am certain this was meant to evoke further something Japanese. I felt it intruded on the performance; it even felt 'cheesy': when laying out props for the main characters, it was never clear whether the ninja-clad extras were meant to play servants or to exist outside of the reality portrayed on the stage. It made me again, six months later, realize how amazing, and quite possibly revolutionary, Robert Lepage's production of The Ring Cycle was.

After the performance, when the players were taking their bows, a portion of the crowd ended up (after first applauding him) booing the singer who played Pinkerton. The singer, realising that response was aimed at the character, played along with it, shrugging his shoulders and sheepishly grinning. And the booing (of the character) was richly deserved, as Pinkerton is such a right fucken bastard. There are not that many fictional characters that inspire strong feelings in me; Pinkerton definitely does. He is an unredeemable arsehole.


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samedi 12 octobre 2013

Days 1-2 (October 10-11): London, UK

Well, this is weird.

Damned weird.

Almost peculiar.

As I got off my flight at Heathrow, I picked up a little visitor's guide to London. You know the type: a pocket-sized, 5-inch by 3-inch, 24-page, glossy little tourist guide that usually features half-assed maps; brilliant recommendations like 'You should visit the Tower of London', 'Big Ben is very pretty' and 'There are pubs in London; you should go to one and have a beer.'; a coupon for £5 off an open-top, Grey Line city bus tour; and a couple recommendations for the finest fish 'n chips joints in town.

Well, this booklet has a 6-page section devoted to restaurants and, as silly as it sounds, I sought out two of them. And, lo and behold, they were really good. A bit trendy/busy, but really, really good.

Ten-On-Greek in Soho (located at 10 Greek Street; get it? Get it?), which is very unassuming and probably only seats 50 or so, serves nice, higher-end 'culinary' plates while featuring a nice selection of wines by the glass. Dishoon's Bombay Café, nearby in Covent Gardens, offers a nice variety of Indian dishes; the two I had (Pan Bhaji, a tomato-based vegetable curry, served with dinner rolls [evidently, it is a Bombay thing], and the lamb biryani) were spicy, but nor overwhelmingly so. They even offer a house IPA, much different from the American IPAs that I enjoyed over the summer, in that it was almost sweet with no discernible hoppiness.

That I managed to find two such places from a tourist booklet and, moreso, that I was actually impressed by them, well,
it is... It is...

It is damned peculiar.



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mercredi 9 octobre 2013

Where Will I Be?

I am currently sitting in the Ottawa Airport waiting to board a flight to London, UK. I should be spending roughly ten days there (provided I can book a hotel room in the morning...) after which I will head to Ireland for three weeks or so.

Provided something interesting and noteworthy happens, I should be doing some blogging, but probably not as extensively as over the summer.

My first random observation: I am travelling so much lighter than over the summer, especially towards the end of the trip. I would not be surprised if I am carrying close to 25 lbs less.

There you go, thrilling, innit?


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